Tourist Photo Post: Food, the Dessert Version

Today's post will probably be my favorite because it's all about food. The food here has been exquisite: we have all stuffed ourselves silly, and it has crossed my mind more than once that Nathan and I should just find jobs and move here so I don't have to learn to cook any of this. So here goes, in no particular order.

Say hello to the fig. It is sweet, juicy and delicious and so wretchedly hard to find fresh in the US that I want to cry. I am tempted to sue Newton for committing grievous bodily harm against this delicious fruit by forcing it into a horrible fig Newton.

These photos are of Kalamata figs, which can be unpeeled (slightly difficult) or eaten whole. The inside is sweet and has a delicious runny center. Figs are extremely hard to find in the US, and I can't bring any back with me. I love them.

These figs were grown on trees watered with reclaimed wastewater from the wastewater treatment plant here on campus. And before you go "Yuck!" you should know that studies showed that the figs from these trees contained fewer contaminants than figs purchased at the produce market.

An Unpeeled Fig

A Peeled Fig

Inside of a Fig

These cacti were also watered with reclaimed wastewater from campus. They produce a red prickly pear that can be peeled and eaten. The fruit is also sweet, and slightly mushy, and you have to swallow the seeds whole because they are tight and hard to chew. I love these cacti.

Joe Celebrating the Cactus

This is a dish called kenafeh. The base is a cheese, layered with melted butter and covered with a crispy rice noodle and crushed pistachios. It is sweet and extremely tasty, and thanks to our TA, I have a source for this delicious dessert in the US.

Maggie's Holding the Kenafah

Another interesting dessert here is Syrian ice cream. Rather than churning it in the typical American fashion, they pound the dickens out of it, which produces a smoother, less creamy texture. The ice cream is then rolled in crushed pistachios before it is served.

Syrian Ice Cream

And finally, I haven't been able to clarify whether the Arabic word limon means lime or lemon, but either way, they make a delicious limeade or lemonade that is mixed with crushed mint. It is not too sweet, very tasty, and very minty.

Ornwipa Posing with Her Limeade/Lemonade

The Jordan River: Another Disaster of Epic Proportions

Map of the Jordan River
and its Tributaries

Brace yourself for statistics overload. Please continue to read anyway: these are important statistics if you care at all about history, religion, water, people, animals, plants, war ... have I left anyone out besides followers of Ayn Rand (boo ... hiss!)?

Since 1980, there have been 37 military conflicts over water; of those, 32 were in the Middle East and 30 involved Israel. Most countries in the Middle East fall well below the world water poverty line, so every last drop of water is accounted for. The problems arise because a number of water bodies form or spill across political boundaries. Some notable bodies include the Disi Aquifer, underlying Jordan and Saudi Arabia; the Yarmouk River separating Syria from Jordan; and the Jordan River, which separates Israel and the West Bank from Jordan. Each of these countries wants a say over how these resources are distributed, and they have gone to war to have that say.

Historically speaking, the Jordan River has been associated with Moses and Elijah; Jesus was supposedly baptized in the Jordan River; and four companions to Muhammed are reported to be buried on the eastern banks of the river. Prior to World War II, the annual flow down the  Jordan River was 1.3 billion cubic meters (344 billion gallons) per year. In 1964 Israel constructed the Israeli National Water Carrier, which was designed to divert water from the Jordan River for the sole use of Israel. In 1966, Jordan constructed the King Abdullah Canal, which diverted water from the Yarmouk River, one of the main tributaries to the Jordan River. Then in 2007, Jordan and Syria completed the Unity Dam, capturing the majority of the Yarmouk River.

Sewage Being Pumped into the Jordan River

Today, the annual flow through the Jordan River is approximately 25 million cubic meters (6.6 billion gallons) per year, or 2% of what it once was. Most of this flow comes from raw or partially treated sewage that Israel discharges to the river south of the Sea of Galilee, and from saline water that Israel diverts from the Sea of Galilee. Of the annual flows that should enter the Jordan River, Israel diverts 46.5%, Syria diverts 25.2%, Jordan diverts 23.2%, and Palestine diverts 5.1%.

The river was once also important to wildlife, and was a main stopping point for 500 million migrating birds. Today there is no aquatic life and 50% of the overall biodiversity has disappeared.

Jordan River Today:
Much of the Riverbed is Now Vegetation

Also contributing to the death of the Jordan River is the fact that is almost completely surrounded by a demilitarized zone; the average person has no easy access to the river. The Jordan River has become a government dumping ground and there is no public outcry because few people know about it.

A study completed by the Friends of the Earth Middle East, an organization of Israeli, Jordanian and Palestinian scientists and engineers, determined that returning 400-600 million cubic meters would go a long way to restoring the Jordan River. Israel has plans to build sewage plants to treat the water that currently flows into the Jordan River, as well as plans to supplement their water supply with desalinated water, thereby enabling them to return some of the diverted flow to the Jordan River. As yet, none of these plans have been recognized.

Move Along; Nothing to See Here

If you're following the news, you know about the assassination of the American Ambassador to Libya, and you know about protestors storming the US Embassy in Yemen. You also know that these protests were reactions to a horribly bigoted, idiotic and deceitful anti-Islamic movie. A trailer for the movie has been circling the internet cesspool; the movie was made by narrow-minded people with no education or world experience and it outrages the same type of people. Okay, you know these things. Here's what else you need to know:

1) Jordan is not near any of these countries. I am staying in a very urbanized city in a very educated country---a country that protects its borders and is far away from these events.

2) The US Embassy knows I am here and how to reach me. They have said nothing about any danger to me or to the people staying with me.

3) Campus security at JUST also knows I am here. They have advised us to travel as a group and not go out at night, but otherwise to proceed as if nothing has happened.

So I am fine. Thank you for not panicking.

If you don't know about recent events, proceed as normal.

Tourist Photo Post: Wadi Rum and Camels

A Rock Formation at Wadi Rum

In Arabic, the word for valley is wadi. Jordan is a land of wadis. During the winter many of the wadis become small creeks and rivers that dry up in summer. Probably the most famous is Wadi Rum, a series of desert valleys running north-south just south of the Shara Mountains. Approximately 720 square kilometers (278 square miles) Wadi Rum is a protected natural area in Jordan and is home to Bedouin tribes. Wadi Rum is also home to spectacularly rock formations: wind-blown domes towering above the rosy desert floor.

The night before we went to Petra, we camped with one of the Bedouin tribes in goat-hair tents. They made us zrb, which entails burying lamb and chicken in an earth pit, covering it with charcoal and sand, and letting it cook for three to four hours. Although this was the first time I've eaten lamb, I will definitely eat it again the next time a Bedouin offers it to me.

Our Camp at Wadi Rum

My Camel: As You Can See, We're in Love

And now the event you've all been waiting for: the camel ride. For 10 dinar each, we got to ride a camel into the desert to watch the sunset. My camel was very tall and white and the most beautiful camel in the herd. Okay, he was a bit cranky at the end of the ride, but I don't blame him at all.

After the camel ride, we watched the sunset, ate zrb and danced with the Bedouins to an odd mixture of Arabic music and rap. It has been my experience that Jordanians are very expressive: the men love to dance with each other, singing along, rolling their hips and waving their arms in the air. It was all very disarming.

Mounting My Camel: He's Super Excited as You Can Tell
Jaffer, Ma'in and Kenten Are Excited in the Background

Ornwipa on Her Camel

From Left: Ornwipa, Jaffer and Me
I Love Camels!

The sunset was also spectacular, although compared to camels, it left something to be desired.

Watching the Sunset

One More Sunset Photo at Wadi Rum

After a Night with the Bedouins at Wadi Rum
In front: Me, Dr. Muna, Rima, Carmen, Kenten, Maggie, Ornwipa, Ban, Dr. Heidi and Jaffer
In Back: Ahmed, Nate, Ma'in, Rico, Joe and Abu Noor

Petra: Getting Water from Stone

Nabataeans were one of the early Arabic tribes to settle in southern Jordan. They were smart (and lucky) enough to settle on what would become one of the most important trade routes of the ancient world. Caravans would travel from Europe and North Africa through the Arabian peninsula on their way to east Asia, stopping at the Nabataean city of Petra on the way. The Nabataeans realized the value of all this traffic and made money levying tolls and selling goods and services to travelers. Because they were a major nexus for traffic from many cultures, the Nabataeans were able to absorb multiple layers of learning and engineering technology. They are especially known for their advanced hydraulic systems and their ability to deliver water in the middle of the desert.

The Obelisk Tomb and Bab As-Siq Triclinium

To get to Petra, you have to walk down the Siq, a narrow, 1 kilometer trail leading into the city. The cliff walls of the Siq are naturally formed from the same multi-colored rock that forms the rest of the city. 

Before you enter the Siq is The Obelisk Tomb and Bab As-Siq Triclinium, which shows a Graeco-Roman influence. A triclinium is a room with three benches; it was used for sacred feasts to honor the dead. Much of the city of Petra is still undergoing renovation, as you can tell by the ladder next to the Tomb.

The Entrance to the Siq:
From Left is Ban, Me and Dr. Muna

Cliff Walls of the Siq

As happened to most (if not all, I'm not an archaeologist) civilizations on the Mediterranean, the Nabataeans came under the control of the Romans in 106 CE. Much of the architecture in Petra shows Roman influences, as well as African and Asian influences because of the constant flow of travelers and traders. The Obelisk Tomb is a good example of this; the obelisk is Egyptian in origin, while the columnar structure is Graeco-Roman, not to mention purely ornamental.

Water Channel Cut into the Walls of the Siq

As you walk down the Siq, you can see a channel cut into the walls of the Siq; this channel was used to deliver water to Petra. As the city grew, the channel was covered to protect the water supply going into the city.

The Nabataeans were extremely skilled at water resources engineering, used their knowledge to harvest rainwater, filter sediment from their water supply, and deliver pressurized water to the people of Petra. They also used it ornamentally, creating artificial waterfalls.

Remains of a Circular Pipe Carved into the Walls of the Siq

The photo below shows a channel that collected rainwater as it fell on the walls of the Siq and flowed down over the carved ridges, created an artificial waterfall.

Rainwater Channel with Carved Ridges for a Waterfall Effect

Public water sources were available throughout Petra. These sources were often indicated by a carving such as the one shown below, which is known as a djinn.

Camels Keeping Company with a Carved Djinn

As you exit the Siq, you walk into the an open courtyard dominated by the Al-Khazneh or Treasury. Thought to have been the tomb of a 1st century BCE Nabataean King, the Khazneh is 43 meters (141 feet) high and 30 meters (98.5 feet) wide. It is the most impressive structure in Petra and is one of the ancient wonders of the world. The Siq and the face of the Khazneh were featured in the third Indiana Jones movie, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. You really can't appreciate grandeur of the Khazneh unless you see it in person.

Al-Khazneh

Much of the rock face in Petra is carved and hollowed out; some of these were residences, tombs and churches. The interiors of these shows a marvelous striated rock.

A Tomb in Petra

Interior Wall and Ceiling of a Residence in Petra

Another spectacular site in Petra is Ad-Deir, the Monastery. You have to climb 778 steps (by my count) to get to Ad-Deir, but the reward is another beautifully carved entrance and view of the area surrounding Petra. Many local entrepreneurs hang around the steps leading up to the Monastery, offering donkey rides up the steps: "Only 5 Dinar" (about $7.50) or "It's a one-hour climb; only 20 minutes by donkey" or "1000 steps up to the Monastery; ride my donkey" or my personal favorite, "Try before you fly. Michael Jackson." First, it only took me 45 minutes and I stopped several times to rest. Second, when you tell them it's not actually 1000 steps, they try to bargain with you: "850 steps." Third, and this is the sad part, the donkeys did not seem well cared for. Most of them had chains around their muzzles that were too tight, causing festering, and I didn't see a single donkey handler (not sure what else to call them) carrying water for their donkey once they hauled a lazy tourist up to the top. So I chose to haul myself and I didn't regret it.

The Face of the Monastery

The Climb up to the Monastery

One the topic of entrepreneurs, all over Petra there are numerous small stands selling trinkets and gifts, as well as people walking around with items for sale. Some of the most convincing salespeople are children, who aren't afraid to run up to you and pester you to buy their wares. On my way into the Siq, we came across two boys, maybe 10 years old, selling packets of postcards for 1 dinar. They were cute and personable so I bought the postcards. Five minutes later, we passed a younger girl selling the same postcards. When I told her I had already bought a set, she told me to buy another. "Buy one for your sister. Buy one for your husband to make him love you more." So of course I had to buy another set. Nathan, just so you know, I have high expectations for these postcards.


All in all, Petra was one of the most overwhelming experiences of my life. There was so much detail that I missed. It would have taken me another week to see all of the noted sites in Petra, and a lifetime to study their significance. I am definitely going back.

The Dead Sea: A Disaster of Epic Proportions (Seriously)

I am Floating in the Dead Sea

The lowest point on earth is the Dead Sea at 420 meters (1,377 feet) below sea level. Nestled in the Jordan Rift Valley between Israel and Jordan, the Dead Sea is one of the saltiest water bodies on earth, containing about 33% salt, which is about 10 times higher than seawater. Because the human body contains about 60% water, people float in the Dead Sea. This week we visited the Dead Sea to conduct field density tests on near-shore water.

Actual and Projected Surface Area of the Dead Sea
Source: Professor Hani Abu Qdais

Now here comes the disaster: the Dead Sea is drying up. Due to the extreme water shortage and population growth in the region, much of the water that once flowed into the Dead Sea has been diverted for potable water use. Inflow to the Dead Sea has decreased from 1,200 million cubic meters per year to 250 million cubic meters per year; in the last 55 years, the water level has dropped by 24 meters (79 feet) and the surface area has decreased by 33%. The map to the left shows the actual and projected surface area of the Dead Sea given current trends in water use.

Shoreline of the Dead Sea

According to experts, if nothing is done to increase the flow into the Dead Sea, it will be gone in 50 years. The drying of the Dead Sea has other adverse impacts, such as the growth of sinkholes in the area due to the retreat of the water levels. The Dead Sea is home to thousands of years of cultural and religious history, not to mention a major tourist attraction in the area. The photo to the right shows the distinct layers of the shoreline where the water level once was but has now retreated.

The Jordanian government, in concert with the Israeli and Palestinian governments, is currently implementing the Red-Dead Sea Seawater Conveyance Project. This project will pump seawater from the Red Sea, approximately 1,900 million cubic meters per year, the Gulf of Aqaba on the Red Sea to a desalination plant at Wadi Araba. The plant would desalinate the seawater, producing 850 million cubic meters per year for use in water-taxed Jordan, Israel and Palestine. The remainder of the water from the desalination process, known as brine---with a saline concentration approximately one-fifth that of the Dead Sea---would be discharged into the Dead Sea to help raise the water level.

The Sun Sets over the Dead Sea

This is an extremely charged topic: I've attended two lectures on this project, and in both you couldn't part the tension in the room with a knife. Scientists are concerned about environmental degradation of the Dead Sea, particularly because the desalination process will introduce foreign chemicals into the Dead Sea. Government officials are concerned with providing water for their people and with preserving the rich cultural heritage and thriving tourist industry. The Red-Dead Sea Seawater Conveyance Project is their solution to a problem with no easy answers.

Tourist Photo Post: The Bible Version

A View of Israel, Syria and Jordan

One of the truly amazing things about this country is the overwhelming presence of the place: wherever  you go, there is something important to see. We were on the way to Gadara, and we began to pass a lot more security checkpoints than usual. After the last checkpoint, we pulled over onto the side of the road (somewhat surreptitiously in my opinion) and got out. This is what we saw.

I'm a little unclear on the borders, but here is what I know: the V-shaped piece of land in the center of the photo is Syria. To the left in the background (I believe the road divides it) is Israel, and in the foreground is Jordan. The river you are looking at is the Yarmouk River, and important source of water for the Jordanians.

Directions from the Top of Mount Nebo

Speaking of presence, we went to Mount Nebo the other day. Mount Nebo is one of the holiest sites in Jordan because it is believed that Moses, who was forbidden to enter the Promised Land, went to the top of Mount Nebo---it would have been quite a hike at an elevation of 1,000 meters (3,300 feet)--- looked down upon the Promised Land and died. Muslims believe that Moses was carried down into the valley and buried there, while Christians and Jews believe that he was buried somewhere at the top of the mountain. From the top of Mount Nebo you can look down into Jerusalem and the Dead Sea.

View from the Top of Mount Nebo

Now, I'm not a religious person, but I felt the power of the place: a site that is holy to literally billions of people, living and dead. People have worshipped there for centuries, criss-crossing the mountain to commune with their history, their prophets and their God. Talk about presence of place.

At the top of mountain is a church they believe was built in the fourth century CE. The church was undergoing renovation so we weren't able to look at it. The following photo shows a floor mosaic---a mural made from tesserae, small squares of colorful stone---dating to the sixth century CE. It is one of the pieces currently undergoing restoration.

Floor Mosaic from the Church at Mount Nebo

The Guys on the Top of Mount Nebo:
From Top Left is Joe, Ahmed, Nate, Mo'ad (below Nate) Ma'in, Rico and Jaffer

The Ladies on the Top of Mount Nebo:
Clockwise from Left is Maggie, Me (the tall one), Kenten, Dr. Muna,
Dr. Heidi, Carmen, Ornwipa, Siham, Ban and Rima

And here we have Maggie and Ahmed trying to roll the Abu Badd, a fortified door from a Byzantine Monastery nearby.

The Abu Badd: My Bet is on Maggie, our Resident Rugby Player